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UNA BAMBOLA DI STOFFA RUBATA di Franco Ricciardiello


Il viaggio via mare fino a Tunisi fu un’esperienza brutale.
Un siciliano ci fece calare nella cisterna vuota di un cargo battente bandiera greca. Il ragazzo di Novara che aveva fatto il viaggio con me si attardò sul ponte, le mani affondate nelle tasche, cercando di ritardare il momento di scendere nella cisterna maleodorante di prodotti chimici; ma l’intermediario lo spinse per le spalle, insultandolo.
— Polentoni della malora — esclamò chiudendo il boccaporto, badando che sentissimo tutti. — Vorrebbero viaggiare in prima classe, magari.
La traversata durò tutta la notte, nell’odore ammorbante di solvente della cisterna; l’equipaggio era al corrente della nostra presenza clandestina, ma nessuno si affacciò per gettarci un pezzo di pane.
Non era ancora l’alba quando un marinaio si sporse finalmente dal rettangolo del boccaporto. Lo seguimmo sopra coperta; affiancata al cargo c’era una lancia con due uomini a bordo. Noi clandestini eravamo in quattro; scendemmo la scaletta che sapeva di pece per sdraiarci sul fondo della barca.
Ci staccammo con il motore al minimo, e finalmente l’odore mediterraneo dell’aria notturna ci accolse accompagnandoci nel tragitto sino a riva.
Quando sbarcammo sulla riva pagammo mille piastre, l’altra metà del premio pattuito con il mediatore, e ci incamminammo attraverso la spiaggia verso le invitanti luci mattutine di una superstrada ad alta velocità che sembrava correre parallela alla costa tunisina.
Il mattino era ancora scuro e già torrido, ma io indossavo una giacca di pelle conciata perché alla mia partenza da Torino faceva freddo. Si sentiva provenire dalla città di Tunisi ogni genere di suoni: musica da ballo elettronica, rombo di autovetture, voci umane, persino lo sciabordio dell’acqua marina. Udimmo anche il lamento modulato di un muezzin dal minareto, o almeno così credemmo sino a che non ci rendemmo conto che si trattava di un potente altoparlante digitale.
Sulla superstrada le automobili sfrecciavano veloci: macchine grandi, cromate, eleganti, di fabbricazione saudita, non le carcasse algerine di terza mano che importavamo in Italia.
Ci fermammo appena prima della carreggiata ad osservare il cielo, un cielo strano, diverso, che le innumerevoli luci artificiali di Tunisi scolorivano in un amaranto scuro.
Mi sentivo emotivamente carico, eccitato, quasi non fossi un emigrante per disperazione. I miei occasionali compagni di viaggio, oltre al ragazzo di Novara, erano due bruti delle montagne venete, ignoranti e rozzi con i quali non cercavo confidenza perché avevo studiato due anni in un istituto tecnico agrario di Torino (sebbene fosse svanito per ragioni economiche il mio sogno di proseguire gli studi all’estero, in una delle università dei paesi industrializzati, Yemen o Etiopia).
L’amico di Novara persisteva nella sua intenzione di proseguire verso la grande, cosmopolita, materialista Algeri: io invece avevo il viaggio già organizzato da mio cognato, che lavorava nei cantieri edili di Assuan in Egitto; mi aspettava quindi un percorso di migliaia di chilometri. Salutai perciò i miei compagni di viaggio e proseguii con la giacca sulle spalle e la mia borsa di tela con pochi effetti personali in mano.
Non sapevo nulla di Tunisi, ma avevo l’indirizzo di qualcuno che avrebbe potuto aiutarmi, un conoscente che faceva il lavapiatti in un rinomato ristorante iraniano del lungomare.
Nel camminare nella folla fitta e policroma della passeggiata di palme mi sentivo osservato, benché per la verità ben pochi arabi mi degnassero di un’occhiata più che superficiale.
Tutti gli uomini mi parevano persone importanti, ben vestiti di lunghi caffettani alla moda, damascati, di una gamma di colori che andavano da un elegante pervinca a un blu elettrico; le donne mi parevano tutte bellissime, cariche di gioielli esotici: perle del mar Rosso, monili d’oro delle ex colonie siberiane, orecchini e minuscoli diamanti alle narici; bellissime, la pelle color caffelatte uniforme, con lunghi capelli neri e vestiti aperti da spacchi sino all’anca: non come le donne europee sepolte in vestiti di lana nera, i capelli coperti dal velo, le sottane sino ai piedi e la croce di castità al collo.
Pensai di videochiamare mia moglie dal ristorante iraniano per rassicurarla sul buon esito della traversata, ma il mio conoscente che vi lavorava mi dissuase.
— Impossibile — disse scuotendo il capo. — Se mi scoprono sono licenziato. Il sindacato non può far nulla per noi immigrati.
Mi fece però mangiare alcune portate avanzate alla fine del servizio, dopo colazione, mentre i suoi colleghi arabi chiudevano un occhio con il proprietario.
Il mattino seguente salii sul treno per Tripoli, la fantastica ex capitale imperiale di un’Italia colonizzata fino a pochi decenni prima, che bombardava la Sicilia di trasmissioni televisive sull’opulenza della nazione araba. Il biglietto era pagato in anticipo da mio cognato, una cifra che non avrei potuto permettermi, equivalente a mezza stagione di salario da sorvegliante durante i lavori agricoli nelle campagne piemontesi. Rimasi assorto durante l’intero viaggio, non senza notare come alcuni dei passeggeri sembrassero mal tollerare la mia presenza.
Una giovane araba mi offrì però una caramella al ginepro e si mostrò gentile per il resto del viaggio, forse anche a causa di un malinteso senso di colpa perché, come mi raccontò, suo padre era stato ufficiale nell’esercito libico durante la cruenta guerra d’indipendenza italiana; ma io, non avvezzo a tanta intraprendenza femminile da qualcuna che non fosse mia moglie, continuai a fissare imbarazzato fuori dal finestrino.
Il paesaggio era un susseguirsi di piantagioni da frutta, di spiagge affollate di turisti giunti da ogni parte dell’Africa, l’aria aveva profumo di libertà e prosperità. Nell’approssimarci a Tripoli però attraversammo grosse concentrazioni di fabbriche, raffinerie, cantieri; attraversammo infine un intero quartiere europeo, un ghetto nei sobborghi della metropoli; sui muri scrostati di una fabbrica lessi, in italiano e in arabo, “Europei e libici tutti uniti contro lo sfruttamento del lavoro”; dal finestrino vidi molte donne che avevano navigato esse pure il Mediterraneo per seguire mariti e figli, per fuggire alla sovrappopolazione, alla disoccupazione, alla miseria, alla repressione poliziesca, al fanatismo integralista.
I libici erano talmente abituati alla presenza di noi europei che quasi non mi badarono all’arrivo in stazione. Passeggiai stanco e affamato per le vie del centro, guardando nelle vetrine regali per i miei bambini che non avrei mai potuto permettermi, masticando rabbia per la prosperità di quel paese e l’indigenza endemica del mio, in cui sembrava non piovere mai abbastanza forte da lavar via il dolore.
Il mio contatto a Tripoli era un astigiano che faceva il fattorino per una ditta di trasporti: il suo camion partiva quella sera e si prodigò per convincere l’autista a prendermi con loro senza farlo sapere al titolare.
Riuscii a dormire sdraiato sul retro insieme alle balle di cotone ucraino del carico, sino al nostro arrivo a Benghazi.
L’astigiano mi portò a mangiare a casa della sua amica locale, una norvegese che faceva l’odalisca in un locale per facoltosi turisti turchi. La donna si interessò molto alla mia storia: mentre l’uomo russava con il capo sul tavolo, conciliato dalla bottiglia di barbera che avevo tratto dalla mia borsa di tela, lei mi raccontò di suo fratello minore che aveva studiato ingegneria a Baghdad e al ritorno in Norvegia era stato rapito dagli squadroni della morte degli integralisti cristiani: di lui non s’era saputo più nulla.
Il suo uomo dormiva ancora, profondamente. La notte di Benghazi sapeva di rose e mare; dalla finestra spalancata entravano voci divertite e rumori di motori potenti, e più tardi note di strumenti a corda da una radio.
La norvegese mi portò nella sua camera, che aveva un letto dalla coperta damascata e pareti senza intonaco. Continuammo a parlare tutta notte; le domandai di venire con me in Egitto, ma per fortuna non mi rispose: rimase a fissare il soffitto di stucco nell’afa bollente della notte di salmastro e fiori.
L’indomani mattina mi accompagnarono alla sezione locale della Mezzaluna rossa, dove trovai altri europei in attesa dell’occasione di spostarsi verso levante spendendo poco. Un brutto spagnolo di mezz’età ci prese venti rupie egiziane a testa per accompagnarci in auto al confine.
Salutai la norvegese con un abbraccio, ma pareva essersi dimenticata dell’intimità verbale della notte precedente. Viaggiammo scomodamente su una vecchia automobile algerina sino al posto di confine, dove fummo scaricati senza complimenti. Le leggi sull’immigrazione nel ricco e popoloso Egitto sono restrittive e severe. Passeggiai per le vie della squallida cittadina di frontiera, sui marciapiedi d’ingresso degli enormi magazzini esentasse simbolo dell’opulenza della nazione araba. Incrociai parecchi europei che vendevano oggettini di contrabbando: monili di rame o ferro sagomati a forma di orso o di soldato romano, mantelle di tartan scozzese, zoccoletti olandesi intagliati a mano, merletti di Fiandra, riproduzioni dell’Alhambra o della moschea di Cordoba.
Uno di essi mi indirizzò alla locale cooperativa di immigrati, dove in cambio di poche piastre ricevetti un piatto di polenta e verdura scottata. Dormii su una branda, dopo aver scritto a lume di candela una lettera a mia moglie.
L’indomani mi accodai a un gruppo di danesi: un mediatore egiziano ci accompagnò in fuoristrada verso l’entroterra, sino alle propaggini del deserto reso fertile; con un pomeriggio di cammino raggiungemmo la prima oasi oltre confine, nascondendoci più di una volta nelle sterminate piantagioni di alberi da frutta perché gli elicotteri della polizia di confine passavano bassi e minacciosi sui canali d’irrigazione.
All’arrivo mi levai le scarpe dai piedi martoriati e sanguinanti, butterati di vesciche. Non capivo una parola di quello che dicevano i danesi, e né io né loro parlavamo arabo. Li seguii comunque alla locale moschea dove un religioso barbuto ci distribuì gratuitamente tè alla menta dolcissimo e biscotti di sesamo.
Mi sentivo stanco e demoralizzato; sino a quel momento non avevo guadagnato una piastra; avevo anzi speso quasi tutti i risparmi di due anni di lavoro e ancora mancavano 1.500 chilometri per raggiungere Assuan.
Faceva molto, troppo caldo. Ci fu permesso di dormire in una tenda attigua alla moschea, ma la temperatura era soffocante e non me la sentivo di respirare per non inalare fuoco. Un attacco di dissenteria mi accompagnò attraverso la notte insonne.
Il giorno seguente il religioso ci mise a disposizione un rasoio elettrico e una videofonata ciascuno: mi irritai la pelle e chiamai il parroco del mio paese perché avvertisse mia moglie, dato che il videotelefono nelle abitazioni private è un lusso in tutta Europa.
Mi sentivo debilitato, scoraggiato; venne a farci visita alla tenda un losco milanese, il quale nello scoprire che ero italiano mi offrì un lavoro: avrei dovuto recarmi per una stagione a vendere oggettini in una delle località balneari del mar Rosso.
Non accettai; mi incamminai invece, solo e febbricitante, sulla strada verso la costa, cercando un passaggio in automobile. Dovetti nascondermi al sopraggiungere di una pattuglia delle guardie di confine, forse avvertite della mia presenza.
Attesi la notte, quindi continuai lungo la strada barcollando per la febbre. Si fermò un motociclista palestinese che mi diede un passaggio fino alla costa, dove giunsi con i capelli incollati dal vento e le ossa doloranti dal freddo.
Piansi di fame e rabbia sul lungomare di palme da datteri, scansato dagli arabi in passeggiata. Mi fermarono due poliziotti nubiani dalla pelle color prugna; rimasi in commissariato masticato dalla febbre sino al mattino seguente, quando ricevetti la visita di un medico che non parlava lingue europee.
Subito dopo i poliziotti mi portarono davanti a un giudice, alla presenza di un traduttore portoghese; marchiarono il mio passaporto con il timbro “Indesiderato” in sette lingue e mi misero su un treno diretto verso il confine libico, con un foglio di via scritto in una lingua che appena comprendevo.
Il medico mi aveva praticato un’iniezione di antibiotico; alla prima stazione, sentendomi meglio, scesi e montai senza biglietto su un treno in direzione opposta, verso il Nilo. Per tutto il tragitto rimasi ad attendere che la polizia ferroviaria mi scoprisse; scesi infine ad Alessandria, la splendida metropoli costiera, il principale porto del Mediterraneo. Mi sentii ricaricato a nuovo negli immensi giardini di cedri, lungo gli interminabili viali di datteri, a fianco delle bellissime donne, disinibite e cariche di gioielli, abbronzate e scure d’occhi e di capelli, fra gli studenti universitari di ogni parte del mondo che vitalizzavano la metropoli.
Avrei voluto fermarmi ad Alessandria invece di risalire il Nilo per raggiungere mio cognato ai cantieri dell’alto Egitto.
Incontrai dei connazionali che mi indirizzarono a uno dei locali centri di accoglimento per immigrati in periferia; presi senza biglietto un hovercraft di linea, guardato con sospetto dai passeggeri, ma nello scendere mi resi conto che qualcosa non andava: incontrai gruppi di scandinavi e slavi che non parlavano lingue romanze e non riuscirono a spiegarsi in arabo.
C’era un’agitazione innaturale; gli arabi camminavano a passo rapido, le finestre si chiusero ermeticamente, le automobili scomparvero. Camminando con la mia borsa di tela, udii l’ululato furibondo di veicoli di soccorso.
Non potei neppure raggiungere il centro d’accoglienza: riuscii a bloccare un connazionale in fuga che mi raccontò confusamente di tafferugli, di uno scontro tra immigrati francesi e tedeschi fra le tende del campo. Spranghe, coltelli, corde; c’erano stati dei morti e l’intervento della polizia. Compresi che la situazione poteva farsi pericolosa e seguii l’uomo, lasciando che mi facesse strada nella fuga. Incrociammo sbandati e udimmo ancora urla di sirene, poi un rumore ritmico in avvicinamento, sempre più forte; non avevo il coraggio di voltarmi mentre correvo, la pressione del rumore sul mio orecchio interno mi spingeva a correre più forte. Quasi cozzai contro un gruppo di sbandati, e allora piovvero i gas.
Cominciai a lacrimare; fra le dita strette sul viso a proteggermi gli occhi, piegato in due per le contrazioni spasmodiche alla bocca dello stomaco, vidi abbassarsi dal cielo le sagome terrificanti degli elicotteri antisommossa, simili ai mitici elefanti scomparsi dall’Africa a causa dell’inquinamento.
Non riuscii più a muovere un passo; sentivo gli occhi sciogliersi in lacrime e conati di vomito che non mi veniva su perché avevo lo stomaco vuoto. Udii fra i dolori un autoveicolo che sopraggiungeva, quindi mani poco gentili mi sollevarono.
Non riuscivo a reggermi in piedi; mi buscai calci nelle reni, mentre bastoni elettrificati mi colpirono al collo e ai fianchi. Mi caricarono a forza su un veicolo, insieme ad altri disperati; cercai di dire che avevo perduto la borsa di tela, o forse mi era stata strappata via, ma riuscii solo a tossire. Non ero ancora in grado di vedere a causa dei gas.
Ci portarono in manette davanti a un tribunale; c’era anche un traduttore, tentai di spiegargli che mi ero trovato per puro caso in quella strada, ma non mi diede retta.
Controllarono i miei documenti: non avevo visto d’ingresso e risultavo già espulso quel mattino stesso dal paese. Mi caricarono sulla prima nave passeggeri per Genova.
Rimasi semiaccecato, fisicamente a pezzi, in un angolo del ponte principale per buona parte della traversata, piangendo di rabbia e dolore, ma quasi sollevato dal fatto di tornare a casa. Avevo provato a fuggire dalla miseria, dalla disoccupazione, dalla paura e dalla superstizione; ma dovetti rendermi conto, quella notte di semicecità, che qualsiasi tentativo di fuga era una soluzione di ripiego, destinata a fallire, perché non poteva comprendere mia moglie e i bambini.
Passeggiai sottocoperta, sporco e spettinato, gli occhi infiammati, infischiandomene se mi schivava chiunque; nello spaccio a dazio libero vidi una bella bambola di stoffa di fabbricazione palestinese, che costava metà del denaro rimastomi: provai l’acuta tentazione di comperarla per mia figlia come unico ricordo della mia disavventura nei paesi industrializzati. Era morbida e bella, vestita di un tessuto che non era quello ruvido, imperfetto di fattura europea. Sapevo che infilarla sotto la giacca avrebbe potuto costarmi carissimo in quella società che sembrava non discriminare la gravità dei delitti.
Più tardi, affacciato dall’oblò del ponte passeggeri sulla notte del Mediterraneo, attesi sveglio l’arrivo a Genova.
Tirai fuori la bambola che avevo trafugato: nel vederla mi si riempirono gli occhi di lacrime al ricordo urgente dei miei bambini e al pensiero che del tentativo di cercare fortuna all’estero non rimaneva che una bambola di stoffa rubata.


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